|The base is an 18" x 30" hardwood movers dolly from Harbor Freight.
It has four swivel casters and is rated at 1000 pounds.
The top and bottom plates are 3/4 inch plywood.
Cabinet grade plywood is recommended for the top.
The bottom plate can be any lower grade 3/4" plywood.
The side frames are 1x4 dimension lumber (actual 3/4" x 3 1/2").
Two full size door hinges
Four sliding bolt latches
Two additional full size door hinges for each optional fold down surface
Two latch connectors (if multiple units are to be linked)
Four 90 degree metal brackets
1 1/4" drywall screws
2" drywall screws
Instructions are for a stapler stand with two retractable staplers.
Options are included for fold down work surfaces and connecting multiple units.
The full size top is 2 feet 6 inches by 1 ft 6 inches. The full sized top can have a
shelf hinged on each side. These wings may connect to an adjacent stapler unit.
To do so the adjacent unit cannot have its own wings. Also, the top of the "wingless" unit is reduced 3/4 of an inch on one or both sides to accept connection(s). Build instructions and a diagram show this reduction.
01 MAKING SIDE FRAMES
Cut four 1x4's to 1 ft, 11 inches.
Cut four 1x4s to 1 ft 11 and one half inches.
Cut four 1x4's to 2 feet 6 inches.
Cuts should be made on a table saw or radial arm saw for precise square cuts.
These pieces must form an accurate rectangle when assembled.
Layout the four cut 1/4s in a frame as shown in figure 1
It is helpful if long carpenters clamps are used to hold the pieces snug
along the 2 ft 6" axis.
Overlay a 2 ft 6 inch long 1x4 on the frame covering the joints.
drive two 1 1/4" drywall screws into each corner and three drywall screws through the 2'6" board into the 1'11" board. When all 14 screws are in, removed clamps.
One side frame is complete.
Repeat to make the second side frame.
02 MAKING THE BASE
Cut a 3/4" plywood base 2 feet 6 inches by 1 ft 6 inches. Make precise square cuts
to form as perfect a rectangle as possible.
03 MAKING THE TOP
Cut a 3/4" plywood top 2 feet 6 inches by 6 inches. Make precise square cuts to form as perfect a rectangle as possible.
The dimensions stated here are for a full top that allows for two folding work surfaces, one on each side.
04 MAKING THE TOP (WITH AN ATTACHMENT EDGE)
Cut a 3/4" plywood top 2 feet 6 inches by 1 ft 5 and 1/4 inches. Make precise square cuts to form as perfect a rectangle as possible. The width is reduced 3/4 inch shown in red below. This will leave the edge of the side frame exposed and will serve as rest for the folding work surface of another stand.
The dimensions stated here are for a top that allows one folding work surface to be attached. To attach a second work surface on the other side that side must also be reduced 3/4 of an inch. (Total width will be 1 ft 4 1/2 inches).
05 MAKING THE FOLDING STAPLER DOORS
On the underside of the top mark stapler doors 3 1/2 inches wide and 1 foot deep. These doors are 5 and 1/2 inches from each edge (or 4 1/4 inches from an edge if a work surface will be attached.
For a precise door alignment it is recommended that the jig saw cut ONE EDGE around past the end where the hinge goes and then STOP. Install the hinge and only then complete the jig saw cut.
06 MAKING THE FOLDING STAPLER DOORS - BOLTS
Install two sliding bolt latches on each stapler door. Due to the weight of the stapler and the repetitive force of firing the stapler, two bolts per stapler are recommended.
07 ASSEMBLY BASE
Place the 3/4 inch plywood base on the two side frames as shown below. Fasten the base to the side frame using 2 inch drywall screws.
08 ASSEMBLY - TOP BRACKETS
Turn the base and side assembly right side up and install four 3 inch 90 degree angles brackets.
09 ASSEMBLY - TOP
Use screws of LESS THAN 3/4 inch to attach the top to the frame.
10 OPTIONAL FOLDING WORK SURFACE(S)
If fold up work surfaces are desired, cut them from 3/4" cabinet grade plywood matching the stand main surface. The should be 2 ft 6 inches to match the top but witdth may vary as desired.
11 OPTIONAL FOLDING WORK SURFACE(S) - INSTALL
Turn the stand so the work surface faces down on the floor. Position the folding work surface snugly in place then install two hinges.
12 WIRE HOLES
It is recommended that the staplers be clamped to the doors to locate a wire access. This hole should be as close to the stapler as possible to avoid loose wires on the table surface. Drill a hole large enough to pass through the power plug and pedal switch conector plug. (1 and 1/2" diameter should be adequate.)
13 MOUNTING ON DOLLY
The completed stand should be mounted on an 18 inch x 30 inch movers dolly. This raises it to a working height that matches commonly used folding tables and provides mobility for storage. Place the stand evenly on the dolly and fasten using 1 and 1/2 inch drywall screws through the base into the carpeted ends of the dolly.